A bar is one of the last places where strangers stand shoulder to shoulder and are expected to behave. There is no maître d', no seating plan and no host to rescue you. There is only a counter, a crowd and a person behind it doing several things at once.

In such places, manners are not decoration. They are the system by which everybody gets a drink. Break them and you do not merely look foolish; you slow down the evening for everyone within reach of your elbow.

Here, then, are the rules that every good bartender knows and very few customers are ever told.

Getting served

Find a gap, and wait in it. Approach the bar where there is space, rather than wedging yourself between two people mid-conversation. If you must reach past someone, a brief "excuse me" costs nothing and buys a surprising amount of goodwill.

Make eye contact, then be patient. The bartender has almost certainly seen you. Bartenders keep a mental queue that is more accurate than most airline systems. Once you have caught their eye, a small nod is enough. You are in the queue.

Do not wave, whistle, snap or call out. Never hold up cash or a card like a winning lottery ticket. It does not speed things up. It merely moves you, silently and permanently, to the end of that mental queue.

Order when you are asked, not before. And not after, either. When they arrive in front of you, the moment to begin browsing the menu has passed.

Ordering like you have done it before

Know what you want. Look at the list while you wait. If you are ordering for a group, gather the whole order first and deliver it in one go. Four separate trips for four separate drinks is how friendships, and bartenders, are worn down.

Speak the language. Name the drink, then the spirit if it matters to you, then the way you want it. "Neat" means poured at room temperature with nothing added. "On the rocks" means over ice. "Up" means chilled and strained into a stemmed glass. These three words will see you through most of the bars on earth.

Ask, but briefly. In a quiet bar, asking for a recommendation is a compliment. In a crowded one at eleven at night, it is a seminar. Read the room. If you would like advice, give the bartender something to work with: a spirit you like, a flavour you don't, and a sentence rather than a speech.

Do not send back what you ordered. If a drink is genuinely flawed, say so quietly. If you simply discover that you do not care for a Negroni, that is a lesson about yourself, not a failure of the bar.

Paying and tipping

Have your payment ready. When the drinks arrive, the card should already be in your hand. Searching your coat for it while a queue forms behind you is a small act of theft from everyone's evening.

Open a tab if you are staying. It is quicker for everyone. Close it before you leave. Walking out on an open tab is a habit that tends to be forgiven exactly once.

Tip, and tip properly. In the United States, tipping at a bar is not optional and has not been for a very long time. The usual guidance is about a dollar or two per drink, or roughly 15 to 20 percent of the tab. Round up for a complicated order, a crowded night or anyone who remembered what you were drinking.

Tip on the first round. It is not a bribe. It is a signal that you understand how this works, and the evening tends to go better for those who send it early.

Holding your place

A stool is a privilege, not a property. If you are seated at a busy bar, you are occupying prime real estate. Order regularly, keep your belongings compact and do not sprawl. A coat belongs on a hook or the back of your stool, not on the stool beside it.

Do not save seats for the hypothetical. Holding a stool for a friend who is parking the car is reasonable. Holding three stools for friends who "might come later" is how wars begin. If they have not arrived after a reasonable interval, release the seat.

Stand clear of the service well. That gap at the end of the bar, often marked by a rail or a mat, is where the staff collect drinks for the floor. Do not lean on it, linger there or order from it. It is the bar's equivalent of a fire exit.

Lean in, then lean out. Once you have your drinks, step back from the counter so the next person can step forward. If you are standing, the bar is somewhere to visit, not somewhere to settle.

Conduct at the counter

Be civil to the person behind the bar. Learn their name if it is offered, use it sparingly, and do not ask them for their number. They are at work. You are at their work.

Keep the volume to the table. Your conversation is of interest to your companions. It is of no interest to the couple two stools down, however loudly you hope it might be.

Know when to leave. At last call, order once, finish politely and go when the lights come up. The staff have a home to go to, and they have been looking forward to it since roughly nine o'clock.

The best compliment a bar can pay a customer is to recognise him the second time he walks in. That recognition is not earned by spending. It is earned by being easy to serve.

Why it matters

Bars run on informal systems: a mental queue, an unspoken code about space, and in the United States a tipping culture that underpins how staff are paid. The customer who understands those systems gets served faster, is remembered more fondly and spends the evening with less friction. For hospitality businesses, regulars who behave well are worth more than a crowd that does not, which is why good bars quietly reward exactly the habits described above.

Until next week,

B.

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Forward this to a man who waves his card at bartenders as though hailing a taxi.